Hardware

Field Test Review: DMM Dragon Cams

Field Test Review: DMM Dragon Cams

It seems like all the various climbing hardware companies decided that this was the year to come out with new or updated cams: BD has the Camalot Ultralights, Metolius the Ultralight Mastercams (actually these came out in late 2015), WildCountry the new Friends, etc.  And while most of these companies have chosen […]

Review: Petzl Sitta harness

Review: Petzl Sitta harness

The Sitta is Petzl’s newest, lightest and highest-tech harness. It packs a lot of high-end features into little weight, all of which stows down into a tiny package. There are two things that continue to annoy me about the Sitta, but I also find myself using it more than any […]

Review: Cassin X-All Mountain Ice Tools

Review: Cassin X-All Mountain Ice Tools

As a newish ice climber, I spent the first few years renting ice tools from the local outdoor centre and borrowing tools from friends, acquaintances and whomever was willing to lend me a pair. As I live in Calgary, Alberta, with a large population of ice climbers and a short […]

Review: Singing Rock Penta Helmet

Review: Singing Rock Penta Helmet

The arguments and evidence for wearing a climbing helmet are long-documented, both through lab testing and anecdotal evidence. It’s also widely accepted that users are more likely to wear a lighter helmet but even the lightest helmet in the world won’t save your head if you’re not wearing it because […]

Field Tested Review: AustriAlpin Wall Hammer

Field Tested Review: AustriAlpin Wall Hammer

The dark art of piton craft has faded into obscurity for the vast majority of climbers. Because of the propensity to damage and alter the rock when driving a piton, forward thinking climbers started a movement in the 1970’s away from such destructive forms of protection and towards “clean” alternatives.  […]

Comparison Review: Climbing Knives

Comparison Review: Climbing Knives

A good knife is an essential tool for all types of climbing.  It’s used for cleaning manky tat off at a rap anchor, cutting cord for a v-thread, removing tape gloves, cutting a stuck rope out of a crack, slicing up a crag apple or cheese and much more.  Despite […]

Long Term Review: Petzl Laser Speed screws

Long Term Review: Petzl Laser Speed screws

Petzl’s redesigned Laser Speed and Laser Speed Light ice screws debuted last fall, giving me a chance to use them for a whole season. I particularly wanted to compare how the two versions performed across various temperatures and kinds of ice, and was curious about the durability of the aluminum […]

Review: Grivel Twin Gate carabiners

Review: Grivel Twin Gate carabiners

I really appreciate innovation. It doesn’t always result in the lightest, best or most versatile piece of gear but I admire the vision and drive to push the possibilities. Sadly, there aren’t that many truly innovative products these days. Grivel’s Twin Gate carabiner system is firmly in the innovative category. […]

Comparison: Mammut DRY vs PROTECT ropes review

Comparison: Mammut DRY vs PROTECT ropes review

Last winter, the UIAA — finally! — introduced a water-resistance standard for dry ropes.  Previously, manufacturers did all their own testing, and had their own definition of what constitutes a ‘dry’ rope. Now, any rope labelled as a ‘dry’ rope must absorb, at most, 5% of its weight in water. […]

Update: Field Test of Alien Evolution Cams

Update: Field Test of Alien Evolution Cams

August 12, 2015 Update:  Had a great chat with a Fixe designer about their new Alien Evolution cams. I was recently at the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City and had a chance to sit down with one of Fixe Hareware’s designers to discuss some of of the issues […]