It’s hard to improve upon the carabiner these days. As climbers, we have choices in everything from ultra-light sub-20-gram wonders to full-size bolt clipping perfection, a myriad of gate styles, dozens of colours, and probably hundreds, if not thousands, of unique mix-and-match combinations. Camp’s newest ‘biner, the Dyon, has its work cut out for itself if it’s to earn a spot on your rack.
Weighing in at 34-grams, the full-size Dyon combines one of my favourite traits of many Camp carabiners — a super-thin nose — with a snag-free keylock design.
The Dyon’s nose is barely 5-mm thick at the tip and a maximum of 9-mm through the basket which means it can fit into tighter spots, such as knots or chains, and into crowded anchor points. (As compared to a Petzl Spirit which is 6.5-mm at the nose and 11-mm at the basket. A Wild Country Helium, one of the original clean-nose wire gates, is 13-mm at the tip and 9-mm at the basket.)
The patented SphereLock closure combines aspects of a typical keylock design with a wire-gate to minimize snow and ice build-up while maintaining a snag-free design.
The curved I-beam spine construction contributes to easier handling by creating a larger surface area to hold on to, especially with gloves, but also adds to the Dyon’s massive 11kN gate-open strength.
In use, the Dyon is a pleasure to handle, with or without gloves. The gate is large enough to easily open with cold fingers encased in thick gloves, and the biner is a cinch to clip to screws, bolts or gear loops. I’ve not had it come even close to freezing up, despite the whole draw becoming encased in ice.
On my rack, the Dyon draws have single-handedly replaced my long-time favourite Camp Photon winter/alpine draws and my Petzl Spirit bolt-clipping favourites. So now instead of two different racks of quickdraws, I just have a selection of Dyon draws in short, long, alpine (single-length sling) and screamer versions.
The Dyon is also ideal for racking cams, thanks to its low weight and selection of eight different colours: Camp website.
Price-wise, the USD price is $15 while in Canada they retail for $20, which is not inexpensive, however I’ve seen them on sale for a bargain $9 USD.
Camp also offers a few options if you’re looking for quickdraws instead of single biners, from Dyon-Dyon to various mixed combinations and either thick nylon slings or narrow dyneema. Either version now has a simple and effective rubber stopper on the rope-end to keep the biners from twisting around. My personal favourites are the Dyon-on-Dyon with dyneema dogbones, but then I do mostly climb in winter conditions.
My new favourite biners, for pretty much everything.